Hello Lovelies,
It is time for another update! Since the last time I have written you, I have ‘conquered’ three more countries. I have visited France, Hungary and Germany. I am actually currently on a train back from Germany. The last month or so has been very different from the initial few months that I have been here. I have settled into a little bit more of a routine, or at least something that might vaguely resemble a routine and I have come to appreciate the life-style here to a certain extent.
Let’s see, I will try to organize this email somewhat logically, but I make no promises. I will start with an update about school. The university here is very different than SU, as I mentioned in my earlier email, but I think I have somewhat gotten the hang of it. It’s funny, because I have come to realize that I am definitely not the only one who finds the school system here confusing. One of my professors who is from Canada (he is teaching my “Balkans in Transitions” class, which is full of international and Austrian students) spent a good 20 minutes complaining about the bureaucracy of the Austrian educational system. He hit the nail on the head when he described it was a “very fluid process.” Deadlines here are just guidelines and assignments are mere suggestions. Your oral final or seminar paper, depending on the class, are the only things that count, and even with the seminar papers there is an incredible amount of lean way as to when they actually have to be turned in.
School here requires a lot more self-initiative and functions on a very different principle. I feel like most of us are in college because we see it as a means to an end. Get a good education, and then you can get a good job. Go to a good university and you will be able to get into a good graduate school/medical school, etc. It is not the same here. The students here are literally attending classes that they want, because they are interested in the particular subject. The majority of the Austrian students that I have met are pursuing multiple bachelor’s degrees simultaneously and are by no means what I would consider full-time students. They get side-tracked by a subject that sparks their interest and it eventually turns into the equivalent of another major for them.
The educational system here, even for higher education, is essentially free and therefore the students have the luxury to be in school for forever and pursue as many majors as strike their fancy. Actually, there is an interesting story in regards to this. In the last months students all over Austria have been on strike, due to an increase in their student union fees. Education for the first four years of university is free, except for student union fees. These fees used to be around 20 Euros per year (roughly $30), but will be increased to 50 Euros (roughly $75) next year. Apparently this is one of the first increases in a really long time and the Austrian students are outraged! The students have taken over one of the buildings at my university (a building that would be equivalent to our Admin. Building) and have been camping out there. They have been rotating shifts as to who stays there and are literally just sitting in the classrooms and lobby of the building to prevent classes from happening in protest of the increase in student union fees.
I can not even begin to describe how ridiculous this building had become. The lobby essentially looks like a total frat house. They have moved couches, a foosball-table and even a trampoline into it. They sleep there, they eat there, and they party there. The protestors are literally camping out inside this building, and all because of an increase in student union fees. Well, that is not quite true; there are a couple of other reasons why they are protesting, but their platform is founded on that specific reason.
Back to the fact that school is different here. Even my Austrian history professor admitted this the other day. There is one girl in my class that kept asking him every time at the end of class what our homework assignment was and he would usually respond by telling us to just review the reading that was assigned last time. Then the other day he decided to leave the last ten minutes of class to talk to us about the educational system. He explained that he is teaching the class just like he would to Austrian students (this class is specifically for American students) and therefore we are not only getting taught Austrian history, but we also get to experience a different educational approach. He told us that he does not assign a lot of reading and doesn’t have homework assignments, because it is not something that he would expect his Austrian students to do. However, he expects us to do outside research and to delve further into certain subjects/themes that sparked our interest during class. He said that he understands that we are used to very clear-cut directions as to what is expected from us, but that we should really give this whole ‘research what you are interested in’ thing a shot.
In an attempt to fulfill his expectations of us and also start preparing for our oral final, Josie and I bought two history journals that focus on the major themes of our class. It was a wonderful coincidence that the journals were focusing on the topics that we were also interested in.
Aside from the adjustment into this educational system, school has been going pretty well. About half of my classes are in English and the other half are in German. I have been pleasantly surprised by well I can follow all of the lectures. It seems that I have gotten really good at using contextual clues to figure out the occasional word that I don’t understand. Since, my last email I have also gotten over my fear that I can not express my thoughts as eloquently as the native speakers and have started participating fully in class conversations. Though, that really isn’t very much of a milestone in all honestly. I am too much of a chatterbox not to express my opinions in class…Nevertheless, there is one big milestone that is coming up; I will have to turn in my first essay in German at the end of next week. It is not a seminar paper or anything, but it will definitely be a good test of how much my German abilities have improved.
Speaking of German and academics, there is also a decision that I am currently in the process of making. There is a German proficiency test that my university offers every year. It is essentially a language test, much like what I would imagine the English Proficiency for teaching English Test (or whatever it is called) to be like. I have not decided if I feel fully prepared for the test, but I am definitely leaning towards taking it. I feel that taking the test and hopefully passing it would provide me with some good tangible benefits of my study abroad semester.
In terms of academics, some other news is that I decided to drop the economic law class that I was debating about, and I am happy with my decision. However, I have added a class. Josie had signed up for a theology class called “Hardboiled Hebrews and Jews with Swords” and the lectures happened to be during days/times when I had no class, so I decided to go with her to class and effectively also sign-up for the class. The class is a set of two, three-day seminars; one of which has already taken place and one which will take place in January. The class is super interesting. It is about the influences of Judaism in modern-day pop culture. For example, did you know that almost all superheroes are based of off something related to Judaism? Back in the day, Jewish individuals in the U.S. were not allowed to work in main stream media, their works would not be published in magazines, and scholarly journals etc…Thus, they took over the comic book industry. Interesting fact, right? What’s also really fun about the class is that it’s taught by two guest professors from Germany, so their German is impeccable :-P No, on a slightly more serious note, the class is fun, because it is centered around pop culture and let’s be honest the U.S. is the center of pop culture, so our professors use Josie and I as experts during class when analyzing various media clips that are in English.
It is safe to say that school is going well, and I am really enjoying my classes here. Oh, before I forget! I am super excited for this coming weekend, because my Austrian history class is going to Wien. We are going there on a three-day excursion to go experience history for ourselves. We will be visiting important sites and museums and conducting research while there. It all reminds me very much of my Italy trip with Fr. Cobb a couple of summers ago. It just sounds absolutely fantastic and I’m very excited for it! I really hope it doesn’t pour while we are there, some snow would be quite nice however…
Now, on to the exciting tales of my travels. I went to France a couple of weeks ago. Josie and I knew that we wouldn’t be able to celebrate Thanksgiving on the actual day, because we had classes, so we figured that an early Thanksgiving wouldn’t make too much of a difference. We had been wanting to visit her friend Michelle (the same girl that had visited us a while back) for a while and Thanksgiving seemed like the perfect excuse. Though, this was much easier said than done. We needed to go to Rennes and taking a train there would have taken about 24 hours. Even though we have become pretty seasoned travelers, 24 hours still seemed really daunting. Then there was the option of flying there, but that wasn’t panning out too well either, because both Graz and Rennes have very small airports and therefore airfare was turning out to be ridiculously expensive. So, what’s the next logical solution to our dilemma? Renting a car of course! Yes, we rented a car and drove to France. What an adventure that was.
First of all renting the car was an adventure, because the clerks at the rental place were in slight disbelief that we wanted to drive to France and then they needed to figure out whether our licenses would work. Though since it is an international company and they quite frequently work with U.S. customers, it turned out that there was no problem with our licenses. Everything was set for our grand adventure.
We went to class Thursday afternoon (we had that Friday off…there are so MANY holidays here!), picked up the car and started on our journey. Though one minor, actually probably major thing, I need to mention is that the car was a manual, and I only know how to drive automatics and was not about to try to learn how to drive a stick on an ‘Autobahn.’ Thus, Josie was stuck driving the entire time. Though, it was probably better that she was driving anyway, since she’s driven across the country (the country being the US) multiple times and the furthest I’ve ever driven is to Oregon..
Anyway, we stocked the car with snacks, lots of caffeine, and threw on road-trip-ing clothes. It was gorgeous outside as we drove through Austria, and we saw everything from mining towns to cute little villages that are reminiscent of scenes from the Sound of Music. We crossed into Germany as the sun was setting and continued our journey deep into the night. Sometime around the middle of the night it started pouring and we hid out at a rest-stop for a solid hour or so. It was good too, because we needed a break, especially Josie who had been driving the whole time. Though, I have to admit that our car incredibly comfortable. Josie and I decided that we really, really German engineering (it was a Volkswagen) and eventually want a German engineered car.
Once the rain had settled down we continued on our way. This is where the exciting part of the trip comes. Up until this point we had had good maps of Austria and Germany in the car, but we did not have a great map for France. I mean we had Google Map directions exactly to where we needed to be, and we had even studied the Satellite pictures that were available, and we had a semi-decent map from Google with us. But traffic in Paris is crazy!!! We entered Paris in the wee hours of the morning and quite literally drove around for a good four hours before finally finding the right exit out of Paris. It was ridiculous. Their interstate signs are terrible and we had entered during their early-morning rush hour, which was not helpful in the slightest.
Though, after much driving around in what probably were circles we made it out of Paris and to Michelle’s house, where we were warmly greeted by her host family. The poor girl had stayed up the whole night waiting for us. Needless to say we were ecstatic to have made it there without any major glitches. We freshened up, had some lunch and set out for exploration. We were destined for a gorgeous beach. We went to a town called St. Marco, which used to quite literally be a pirate town, and to this day a French flag has never been flown there.
Let me just say that the 20 hours spent driving to France, were made totally worth it when we got to the beach. A gorgeous castle set against the backdrop of the deep sea-foam colored Adriatic Ocean, and amidst it an island with yet another castle. It was magical! I love water and have a minor obsession with pirates, so this place could only be described as dreamy. I threw my shoes off, rolled up my pants and started running around like a small child frolicking around the field on a hot summer day. It was absolutely wonderful. The white sand tickling my toes and the salty sea-water filling my nostrils, combined with the medieval backdrop that I found myself to be a part of transported me into a world of pirates, plunder and a life out on the sea. We spent the rest of the day wandering around the little pirate town and gorging on delicious French baked goods. It was heavenly.
The next day was Thanksgiving (well not really, but we had decided it was) and it was filled with all the usual Thanksgiving activities. We went and bought all the necessary groceries in the morning and spent the rest of the day cooking. Finding a Turkey, or even part of a Turkey was impossible for some reason, so we settled on a chicken, but still made all of the other normal things.
After much goofing-off and a descent amount of cooking, the Thanksgiving feast was ready and Michelle’s host dad insisted of bringing out the best table settings and lighting candles and everything. It was super cute. We had dinner with her host parents and one of her host sisters. Josie speaks a tiny little bit of French, I speak no French at all, Michelle is pretty much fluent, the host parents barely speak any English, and the host sister speaks a little bit but she’s very shy about it. Let’s just say our conversations over dinner involved a lot of hand gestures and Michelle playing interpreter – it was wonderfully hilarious! I have also decided that French is ridiculously hard, word are written pretty much exactly opposite of what you would expect when you hear them…The trip was a total success and we had a safe and much shorter trip back. We didn’t get lost in Paris this time around. Though, I have to admit that we were quite sad to have to return our car.
With no time to lose we were on our way to Budapest, Hungary the following weekend. One of the participants of the program that I partook in this summer had studied abroad in Hungary when he was in high school and highly recommended that I go visit. It was actually really sweet, because he told us all the major sites to see, where to stay and gave us contact information for his wife’s friends (she’s Hungarian) just in case we needed anything.
Hungary was different than any other place we had visited. Prague is an ex-communist city, but this was not nearly as evident there as it was in Budapest. The remnants of the past were palpable the minute you stepped off the train. All of the buildings were dilapidated and there was a gray haze over the entire city. Budapest was what I imagine Russia to look like. It was dreary and sad looking, with an insanely high inflation rate. Just like all of the other buildings our hostel looked pathetic on the outside, but to our pleasant surprise it was very cute on the inside. The court yards of all of these buildings were just immaculately kept. It is as if the façade of the dreary looking buildings is kept there as a protector of unwanted eyes of the beauty that lies within.
Our time in Budapest was short, but we still got to see some of the major sites. We explored the city, wandered around the castle, which was gorgeous. I don’t know if anyone will know what I am talking about, but this castle reminded me of those huge sand-castles that are built specifically for ‘beauty competitions’. They are perfect and bright, just like this castle. And during one of our evenings we walked down to Hero’s Square, which was pretty incredible. As you walk down the street leading to the square there are houses, which are lined with pictures of soldiers that died during the 1958-1959 war. These men were mostly our age or younger. When you can associate real faces with as grand a war memorial as Hero’s Square it creates an entirely different dimension to the whole experience…Budapest was different; it was less glitzy and colder, but yet still unforgettable.
We decided to stay in Graz the following weekend and rest, which our bodies seemed to appreciate. We just had a lazy weekend at home with cookie backing and reading good books. Well, actually we went out to town one of the nights since the Christmas Market opened in Graz. All over Europe there are this super adorable Christmas Markets. I remember these from my childhood, and they just evoke the best of memories. We went out had some hot chocolate and delicious cookies; I even convinced Josie to go on the ferries-wheel with me. I was unfortunately too big for all the other carousels...Christmas Markets evoke my inner child to come jumping out and play :-D
Now on to this weekend; I spent this past weekend in Kaiserslautern, Germany. One of my roommates from this summer was doing an internship there and this was her last weekend in Germany. I had meant to visit her, but her work schedule, my school/travel schedule and the prices of train tickets had not found equilibrium until this past Friday afternoon. Thus, Josie and I bought train tickets Friday afternoon and we were on the road to Germany by Saturday morning. I have gotten amazing at packing and moving around by the way, and I have become a HUGE fan of my backpacking backpack. Josie and I even came up with an amazing phrase, “Take your backpacking backpack back to the outback back where it belongs back.”
We spent this extended weekend hanging out with her and it was such a blast! (Once, again there was another holiday and we didn’t have school Monday and Tuesday…and we never have school on Wednesdays.) It was really good to see her again, and just catch up. I also have to admit that I think I like Germany better than Austria. I am probably biased, but I feel like there is a significant difference between Austria and Germany, and I favor Germany. We spent Sunday touring her town and went to a Medieval Festival, which was awesome. They had little stations set up all around the little castle and live music and fires. It really fit with the entire mood of the town. Then we spent the night at the Christmas Market, which was super cool. They had soooooooo many delicious foods! (George you would have loved it!!!)
Katy had to work on Monday, so Josie and I entertained ourselves by exploring the town some more when the shops are open. We quickly found out that Germany is significantly cheaper than Austria and had a blast shopping around for some new winter gear, while enjoying the multitude of street musicians that seemed to be on every corner. The entire atmosphere of the town was wonderful and just created a really wintery mood. We met up with Katy after work and made cookies and lounged around for the rest of the evening…
Now, I am back heading to Graz with the prospect of another amazing weekend in Wien! I am going to attempt to use the next couple of hours on the train wisely and get some homework done :-D
Sending you lots of love and warm wishes,
Ajla
This is in Werfen, Austria. This is where the really cool castle with the tradition of training birds of prey was.
This is in Venice, Italy. This was a school organized trip.
This is in Ljubljana, Slowenia. Josie and I had decided that we needed to see the capital before leaving Slowenia. We had spent the weekend in Bled, Slowenia.
This is this past weekend in Kaiserslauter, Germany. This is after we had made cookies.
This is in my room in Graz, with my awesome care-package :-)
Michelle and I shopping for our Thanksgiving feast. This was in Rennes, France and Josie thought the shopping carts were pretty hillarious, thus I felt I needed to share this picture.
This is on the wonderful beach in St. Marco, France. Notice the pure joy that this picture excudes. Oh yeah and the absoloutly gorgeous setting!!!
This is in Budapest, Hungary. The amazing sand-castle-like castle.
This is also Budapest, Hungary. I really like this picture, because it shows the emotions that I think this city excudes.
This is Bled, Slowenia - the little adorable mountain town. This is the fairy-tale castle.
This is also Bled, Slowenia. You can see the tiny little island in the middle of the lake. 
This is in Werfen, Austria. This is where the really cool castle with the tradition of training birds of prey was.
This is in Venice, Italy. This was a school organized trip.
This is in Ljubljana, Slowenia. Josie and I had decided that we needed to see the capital before leaving Slowenia. We had spent the weekend in Bled, Slowenia.
This is this past weekend in Kaiserslauter, Germany. This is after we had made cookies.
This is in my room in Graz, with my awesome care-package :-)
Michelle and I shopping for our Thanksgiving feast. This was in Rennes, France and Josie thought the shopping carts were pretty hillarious, thus I felt I needed to share this picture.
This is on the wonderful beach in St. Marco, France. Notice the pure joy that this picture excudes. Oh yeah and the absoloutly gorgeous setting!!!
This is in Budapest, Hungary. The amazing sand-castle-like castle.
This is also Budapest, Hungary. I really like this picture, because it shows the emotions that I think this city excudes.
This is Bled, Slowenia - the little adorable mountain town. This is the fairy-tale castle.
This is also Bled, Slowenia. You can see the tiny little island in the middle of the lake.